Straight Answers Before You Call.
We get the same questions every day. Here they all are — no fluff, no runaround, just what you need to know before you sell your car.
Getting Your Offer
How do I get an offer for my car?
Call (973) 555-0100 or fill out the form on this page. We ask the year, make, model, condition, and your ZIP code. You get a guaranteed number back in minutes — not a range, not "we'll call you back," a real dollar amount.
How does BeaterBucks price my car?
Three things: what the car weighs in scrap metal, what its parts are worth right now (transmission, catalytic converter, doors, wheels, electronics), and today's market prices. A dead engine doesn't zero out a car — the rest of it still carries value.
Will my offer change after I accept it?
Only if the car isn't what you described. Missing catalytic converter, different vehicle than what you told us, or major parts stripped that you didn't mention — those change the number. Describe it straight and the offer is locked.
How long does my offer last?
Offers hold for days, not minutes. No countdown timers, no pressure scripts. Call back when you're ready and the deal is where you left it. If scrap prices move significantly, we'll re-quote and explain the difference.
Do you buy cars that aren't junk?
Yes. Running, drivable, high-mileage, old but clean — we buy cars in every condition. "Junk" is just how most people find us. If it has a VIN, we'll price it.
Is there a fee to get an offer?
No. The offer is free. Towing is free. Paperwork is free. There are no fees at any point — the number we quote is the cash you count.
Pickup & Towing
Is towing really free?
Always. Anywhere in New Jersey. The offer we quote is the cash you receive — nothing comes off for the tow, ever.
How fast is pickup?
Most metro areas are same-day if you call before mid-afternoon. Rural areas may be next-day. We confirm the pickup window before the truck rolls so you're never guessing.
Do I need to be there at pickup?
You or someone you trust who can sign the title and accept the payment. The title handoff IS the sale — an adult with signing authority needs to be present.
Where can you pick up from?
Driveways, streets, apartment parking lots, garages, body shops, mechanic shops, storage lots, and impound yards. If the truck can reach it, we load it. Tell us the location on the phone so the driver brings the right equipment.
What if my car is at an impound lot?
We pick up from impound. Call us before the daily storage fees stack any higher — every day you wait costs you money and doesn't change what the car is worth.
What if my car has no wheels or is on blocks?
Tell us on the phone. The driver will bring a winch or skates to get it onto the flatbed. It doesn't change whether we'll buy it — just what equipment shows up.
Can I drop the car off to you instead?
In some areas, yes. Call and ask — if we have a yard near you, we can arrange it and sometimes offer a bump since we skip the tow cost.
Titles & Paperwork
What paperwork do I need to sell my car?
In most states: the signed title and your ID. Some states require the title signature to be notarized (Arizona, Kentucky, Louisiana, Montana, North Carolina, Ohio, Oklahoma, Pennsylvania, Wyoming). Your state page has the specifics, or call and we'll tell you in 30 seconds.
Can I sell my car without a title?
Depends on your state. Some states let you sell older vehicles with just a bill of sale and registration — Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Rhode Island, Georgia, Massachusetts, and New York all have model-year exemptions. Other states can issue a duplicate title quickly. Call us with your state and year, and we'll tell you straight whether it works and what you'd need.
What if there's a lien on the title from an old loan?
Get the lien release letter from the lender before pickup day. If the lender has gone quiet or been acquired, call us — we've dealt with this hundreds of times and can help you track it down.
Do I keep my license plates?
In most states, yes — plates stay with the seller and either go back to the DMV, transfer to your next vehicle, or earn a registration refund. A few states let plates ride with the car. We'll tell you which applies to yours.
Do I need to notify the DMV after the sale?
Several states require a release of liability or notice of sale filed online — California, Texas, Washington, Oregon, Florida, and Virginia among them. It takes 2 minutes and protects you from the next owner's tickets and tolls. We'll tell you if your state requires it and where to file.
Who handles transferring ownership?
We do — for free. Once you sign the title over, we take care of retitling on our end. Your only job after pickup is the release of liability filing, if your state requires one.
Payment
How do I get paid?
Cash, counted into your hand at pickup. Not mailed. Not direct deposited in 5–7 business days. The driver pays you on the spot before the car is loaded.
Can I get paid another way besides cash?
In most cases we pay cash at the curb. If your situation requires something different, call and ask — we'll work it out before scheduling pickup, not surprise you at the curb.
Do I have to pay taxes on the sale?
We're not tax advisors, but generally: if you sell a car for less than you paid for it (which covers most junk car sales), there's no taxable gain. If you're unsure, check with a tax professional about your specific situation.
What We Buy
What types of vehicles do you buy?
Cars, trucks, SUVs, vans, minivans — anything with a VIN that's registered as a passenger or light-duty vehicle. We don't buy motorcycles, RVs, boats, or heavy commercial equipment.
Do you buy wrecked or accident-damaged cars?
Yes. Wrecked is a significant part of what we buy. A totaled car with an intact drivetrain can pay more than a running car with a rotted frame — condition changes the number, not whether we'll make an offer.
Does it matter how old the car is?
No. We buy cars from the current model year back to the 1990s and older. Older cars sometimes have simpler paperwork since many states drop the title requirement past a certain age.
What if the car has been sitting for years?
That's most of what we buy. Flat tires, dead battery, seized engine, mice in the air filter — none of that stops us. Tell us how long it's been sitting and we'll price it accordingly.
Do you buy flood-damaged cars?
Yes. Water damage kills the resale market but the metal and many parts still carry value. Disclose the flood damage on the phone and the offer reflects it honestly.
Do you buy cars with salvage titles?
Yes. Salvage, rebuilt, parts-only, certificate of destruction — we buy them all. The title brand affects the number but not whether we make an offer.
After The Sale
What happens to my car after you buy it?
It gets recycled. Usable parts are pulled and resold, the remaining shell is crushed and the metal goes back into the supply chain. Your old beater becomes someone else's replacement transmission and next year's steel.
What should I do about my insurance?
Cancel it after the title is signed over and the car is picked up — not before, since you're still liable until the sale is complete. In states where you surrender plates to the DMV, do that first so the insurance cancellation is clean.
What if I change my mind after accepting?
Before pickup: call and cancel, no penalty, no fee. After the title is signed and the car is loaded, the sale is final — same as any private sale.
Can I get a receipt?
Yes. The signed title and bill of sale serve as your receipt. If you need a separate written receipt, ask the driver at pickup and he'll provide one.
Got Your Answer? Get Your Offer.
Fill this out and we'll call you with a guaranteed number. No haggling, no pressure.
The Only Question Left Is How Much Yours Is Worth.
Call now or fill out the form. Guaranteed offer in minutes. Free towing. Cash at pickup.
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